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The best guide is to note how Moroccans dress locally.When invited to a home, you normally take your shoes off before entering the reception rooms – follow your host’s lead.The only exceptions are the partially restored Almohad structure of Tin Mal in the High Atlas, the similarly disused Great Mosque at Smara in the Western Sahara, the courtyard of the sanctuary-mosque of Moulay Ismail in Meknes and the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.Elsewhere, if you are not a believer, you’ll have to be content with an occasional glimpse through open doors, and even in this you should be sensitive: people don’t seem to mind tourists peering into the Kairaouine Mosque in Fez (the country’s most important religious building), but in the country you should never approach a shrine too closely.Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, but always appreciate one.Without a doubt, one of the major disappointments of travelling in Morocco if you are not Muslim is not being allowed into its mosques.There is no doubt that, for women especially, travelling in Morocco is a very different experience from travelling in a Western country.

How you dress is another thing that may reduce harassment.It is customary to take a gift: sweet pastries or tea and sugar are always acceptable, and you might even take meat (by arrangement – a chicken from the countryside for example, still alive of course) to a poorer home.You’re expected to tip – among others – waiters in cafés (1dh per person) and restaurants (5dh or so in moderate places, 10–15 percent in upmarket places); museum and monument curators (3–5dh); (5dh); filling station attendants (3–5dh); and porters who load your baggage onto buses (5dh).In rural areas at least, it is a good idea to follow these codes, and definitely a bad idea for women to wear shorts or skirts above the knee, or for members of either sex to wear sleeveless T-shirts or very short shorts.Even ordinary T-shirts may be regarded as underwear, particularly in rural mountain areas.

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